Haroldo and Roberto Burle Marx were pioneering figures in 20th-century Brazilian design, celebrated for their innovative approach to modernist jewelry between the 1940s and 1980s. Deeply influenced by Brazil’s natural landscapes, the brothers transformed the jewelry world with their sculptural forms, organic shapes, and use of native gemstones.
Haroldo, trained in gemology, was the first to delve into jewelry-making, drawing inspiration from the country’s mineral richness. His work was defined by bold, abstract designs and the use of “free-form” cuts that embraced the natural character of the stones, rather than imposing geometric perfection. This philosophy aligned closely with his brother Roberto’s broader vision: as a renowned landscape architect and painter, Roberto applied his understanding of organic composition and rhythm to jewelry as well.
The brothers’ collaboration gave rise to wearable art that defied conventional European aesthetics. Their pieces often combined gold with richly colored stones like aquamarine, tourmaline, and topaz—sourced directly from Brazilian mines. Haroldo crafted with exceptional technical skill, while Roberto contributed sketches and artistic direction. Together, they championed a vision of jewelry that celebrated imperfection, movement, and nature’s asymmetry.
Their work received international acclaim, collected by connoisseurs and exhibited in museums across the globe. Clients included cultural icons such as Elizabeth Taylor and Brazilian socialite Carmen Mayrink Veiga. Today, the jewelry of Haroldo and Roberto Burle Marx is recognized not only for its beauty and craftsmanship but also for its role in shaping a distinctively modern Brazilian aesthetic.
