Paolo Canevari Sweets (Snake), 2019 Silver Ring 4.5 x 3 cm One of 10 designs from a series of 100 The instincts from our childhood to play and fiddle with the wrapper after the candy is gone, evokes the thought process as Canevari engages in this project, Sweets. Often, the artists engages with the limitations of the malleable aluminium wrapper in such playful whims which subverts our ability to recognise objects. From the suggestion of a cushion-cut ring design, to the reptile shapes of snakes and lizards, the limitations of candy wrapping thrusts Canevari’s mythos of happiness into creating this nostalgic dialogue between the piece and the wearer, reminiscent of our childhood imaginations. Each wearable piece reflects Canevari’s examination of recognisable images and permanence. Pieces from Sweets are cast in silver, and yet, the unique textures of the aluminium foil plays with our perception of materiality as we find what is believed to be fragile, is actually everlasting.
Gigi Mariani Cracks, 2013 Silver, 18kt yellow gold, niello, patina, bracelet 21.5 cm long cm, width 2.3 cm unique and signed Gigi Mariani works with antique, almost forgotten techniques. Using niello, a blackener with the aid of sulfur, he conceals the preciousness of the noble metal. Under the application of heat, “blood clots” and cracks appear in the surfaces — making them appear marked by age. Mariani engages his instinctive approach of using the metal surface as a canvas, incorporating he expressive medium of niello, he interrupts that surface texture through his precise, geometric forms. In addition to precious metals, the basic materials of Gigi Mariani’s jewellery include iron, copper and brass. His incredibly sculptural and geometric wearable works of art have become a testament to Mariani’s incredible attention to materiality as both a goldsmith and visual artist.
Gigi Mariani In balance, 2016 Silver, 18kt yellow gold, niello, patina, ring 3.8 x 2.5 x 2 cm unique and signed In balance is a rather remarkable wearable piece by Gigi Mariani, who fundamentally works with antique, almost forgotten techniques. Using niello, a blackener with the aid of sulphur, he conceals the preciousness of the silver metal. Under the application of heat, “blood clots” and cracks appear in the surfaces — making them appear marked by age, creating such a distinctive texture around the ring as is wraps around the finger. Mariani counteracts his instinctive approach of using the metal surface as a canvas through his precise, geometric forms, interrupting the illusion of such expressive materiality with a solid golden sphere encased within the blackened silver. In addition to precious metals, the basic materials of Gigi Mariani’s jewelry include iron, copper and brass. With his meditative understanding of techniques and materiality, his creations’ unique aesthetic appeal often stem from these sculptural and often cuboid pieces to have been crafted by Mariani as a goldsmith who also works as a visual artist.
David Rodríguez Caballero 1 de Noviembre de 2.014, 2014 18kt rose gold ring 75.40 grams; 43.6 x 45 x 19.8 mm David Rodriguez Caballero is renowned for his geometrically reduced forms, which have been translated into a new formal vocabulary linked to Minimalism. The themes explored by his wearable art, like his sculptures, recall a Constructivism that has been subject to a sense of lyricism and softness that originates from painting. Geometric abstraction is one of the important paths of modern painting and sculpture—it is also important to contemporary music with its streaked structures and colourful overtones. In his wearable art, David Rodriguez Caballero brings his aesthetic obsessions to the third dimension, exploring materials, and the relationship between meaning and object, support and form, dream and paranoia. Caballero manipulates light through his bending and folding of material.
Ania Guillaume Titanium Earrings ‘Azur’, 2019 Titanium 9 x 9.3; 8.6 x 8.3 cm circa Unique As part of her Butterfly Wings series, Azur is an exemplary piece of Guillaume’s examination of elements of the natural environment, translated into wearable art. In sculpture as much as in wearable art, there is a strong perception of the spiritual natural universe. Flowers or animals are designed within the shape of the jewel and, once worn, they create an intricate dialogue between the wearer and nature. Known for their fragility, the delicate attributes of butterfly wings are juxtaposed in its materiality. Casted from delicate carvings into thin wax, the titanium wearable pieces of earrings and necklaces still play with our perception to materiality, as the incredibly lightweight jewellery pieces gleam in their chromatic spectrums. Feminine and beautiful, these reflections of elements of nature become an elegant statement piece to our everyday fashion.
Kendell Geers The Word (Love) Made Flesh, 2019 Silver and enamel pendant 7 x 7.4cm Edition of 20 Signed and numbered The Word (Love) Made Flesh collection consists of a pendant and cufflinks featuring an intricate figurine-like design derived from the ‘Hwe Mu Dua’ (‘measuring stick’) symbol – the West African Andrinka symbol of excellence and perfection. The pendant beautifully displays different brightly coloured patterns on each side, whereas the cufflinks reveal positive and negative black and images. These spiritually charged wearable sculptures cannot, however, be categorised as either European or African, but are rather representative of an interplay between cultures, archetypal signs, and sacred symbols. In the true spirit of Kendell Geers, the archetypal trickster, the ancient African symbols featured in The Word (Love) Made Flesh have been refashioned in an Afropunk style and spell out the word ‘LOVE.’ The Word (Love) Made Flesh thus epitomises the artist’s tendency to subvert ancient iconography by embracing both traditional and contemporary African aesthetics. As the title suggests, The Word (Love) Made Flesh invites the wearer to search for the hidden word within the figure. Words that reoccur throughout the artist’s works include ‘LOVE,’ ‘HATE,’ ‘FAITH,’ ‘FUCK,’ and ‘FREE,’ among others. The pendant and cufflinks can […]
Ai Weiwei Ring W and Ring M, 2018 24kt yellow gold rings 2.48 x 2.88 x 1.65 cm; 2.72 x 3.04 x 1.86 cm edition of 6 (per model) After three years of intense artistic and social commitment, Ai Weiwei returns to create unique jewels with the purity of 24kt gold that can be worn by women and men. The exclusive project, which includes two models of rings, realized in an edition of 6 pieces each, reflects the artist’s concern about the human condition, the awareness of what it means to be trapped, bound, and deprived of the freedom to travel and to determine one’s own existence. Inspired by ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics and the processing of gold in ancient Greece, the rings continue the artist’s research on human migration – as witnessed in the artist’s ground-breaking documentary ‘Human Flow’ (2017). The wearable artworks are representative of Ai Weiwei’s sensitivity to the duality of human nature, with its capacity for nurture and kindness on one hand yet destruction and cruelty on the other. In the centre of the ring’s face, depictions of migrants’ stories unfold under a mysterious half-moon: by foot or by sea, some are portrayed travelling together and others alone. Ai […]